Beast Military
Beast Military
My tribute to a schoolteacher Unknown
Amarnath is a shrine of Lord Shiva and is located deep in the Himalayan state of Kashmir in India. Its altitude is high - about sixteen thousand feet - and the sanctuary, as well as ninety percent of the surgical approach is above the tree line. It is a landscape barren and rocky to the end and does not offer shelter to man or beast. It is a desert in the mountains.
Each year in August, the pilgrimage to Amarnath begins and thousands of people from all walks of life across India gather in Jammu - Kashmir capital. From there, buses and coaches are moving in a convoy Pahalgam under military escort and the violence is an ever present danger.
Pilgrims travel from Pahalgam to Chandanwari and it is from here that the journey begins and takes about three to four days at the sanctuary.
In 1997 I booked a car, which left Delhi for Pahalgam. I was ready to be picked by the coach at four in the afternoon, but due to a last minute problem I missed it. I had to re-book my car to the following, which came after three days.
The day trip for another to Jammu was uneventful and we did not end the next morning. There were about three hundred coaches in the area of parking places built. We had to leave in a convoy the next morning.
Was a clear day with blue sky and bright sun. Around two o'clock in the afternoon, the character of changed very dark sky and clouds began to form. About four who became so dark that the lights had to be on. Then the rain began. I never rains had been so intense. The rain was very heavy and the rain came down in thick curtains. Soon the visibility was reduced to zero and turn the ground beneath the mud with the consistency the dough is kneaded. It rained all night and the next day the car park resembled a lake with water that rises in places to the height of the car wheels. Was difficult to get out to answer the call of nature, get water or just to stretch their legs close. Orderly parking had given way to a situation Coach chaotic as drivers tried to find higher ground.
The convoy was to begin to form around six in the morning, but the muddy field made a difficult task. The authorities found it impossible to win this full of masses of coaches in a straight line. It was still raining nonstop.
Around nine, the convoy finally took shape and gradually began to snake along the Jammu-Srinagar road to Pahalgam. We traveled for a while around forty kilometers per hour and passed the town of Udhampur. About five miles beyond the city the convoy came to a halt since torrential rains swept a hundred yard stretch of road along taking two truckloads of supplies with him. All we could see was mud and mud brown. The trucks were buried somewhere below it. No trace of the crew was.
Also travel was impossible. The military escort convoy decided to route back to Jammu until the situation stabilized.
There was however a drawback. The road was not wide enough for a coach to make a U-turn. More three hundred coaches were stranded there as a train without the motor. It rained relentlessly and soon the drinking water we carried with us is over. It was one of the later.
Someone had the bright idea of collecting rainwater for drinking and began to fill our water bottles out of the channel current drain on the roof of our coach. Fortunately it was not dirty, because the roof had been washed in eighteen hours. It was still raining heavily.
Finally around two, some of us - myself included - decided to walk to resist the Udhampur town and get something to eat. We put on our raincoats and walked. With in the first fifteen minutes rain water seeping under the neck and slowly made his way down. It took about ninety minutes of brisk walking to reach the city. At the time we got there we were soaked to the bone.
Unfortunately for us, several hundred people had the same idea. They also wanted a little food and had the advantage of being closer to the city. At the moment we arrived to the city every food in every restaurant in this small town had disappeared. There was no cooked food, without bread, milk and bottled water is not potable.
I was wet, cold, hunger and misery. I could not stop shaking. Someone decided to find the most expensive eating joint expectancy that have been saved. He was right. We had a good hot meal and some very nice coffee.
cramps hunger satisfied the task of the day, to find shelter. We could walk back to our co-coach as a solo traveler who had stopped at some point later informed us that our car was not there. The military had used bulldozers to make compensation to the coaches to make a change meaningless. Is now lost in a sea of buses on the road somewhere.
It was about six pm and is getting colder by the minute. The rain was relentless and very Suddenly the clothes partially dried wet again. The rain was particularly some problems for me and my glasses kept fogging over.
We went from one place to another to find a room for the night in all rooms were taken. Finally a kind soul directed us to the Hare Krishna temple premises where it was thought could afford to spend the night. The only problem was it was dark and we do not know the addresses. It was raining relentlessly.
Somehow staggered to the temple and asked the head priest for us to stay. He had no room with beds, but had a room where some people deep as we were sleeping on the floor. We were advised to go there without bothering anyone.
When we reached the bedroom, it seemed to be a fourth, which could house than twenty people. Thirty people were already sleeping there. There was barely enough space to sit. I had no bedding and the floor was covered only a thin cotton durry or rug. I was sitting by the door, which remains open to allow the plane to come in. I was wet and cold and very uncomfortable. Later that night, somehow dominated fatigue cold and I slept fitfully.
Next day it was still raining when I left to find a room break, a little hot tea and breakfast at all - in that order. My luck had changed his mind at night because I found all three in quick succession.
I now focused on searching for my coach, I had all my membership that includes a change of clothes and underwear. Was it anywhere. Circling mass Pilgrims saw a familiar face from my coach and he pointed to where he was stationed.
It seemed empty except for the driver who informed me a group of about twenty people had been offered a place to stay in the house of a local schoolteacher. The rest had found shelter elsewhere. I brought home was a relief to find myself among people I knew. The school teacher very kindly extended hospitality to me as well.
The rain was unstoppable even in this third day and all were limited to two rooms that had been abandoned by us.
We stayed at his house for two days and were treated as guests of honor. His wife always tea, snacks, lunch and dinner for the next three days. During this time the rain was continuous. The rain finally stopped the night of the third day and begged our leave it.
We all wanted to pay for expenses but not even hear of it. To him they were pilgrims the sanctuary and take our money would be a sacrilege. It was merely the attachment to the ancient Hindu doctrine of an owner of a house that commands to provide all facilities for a guest. Sanskrit adage "Atithi Devo Bhavha" Guest is God "may never find a more complete expression as far as I I know.
He had a daughter of marriageable age and grouped into enough money to buy a present worth for your wedding.
We leave home with wet eyes and heart heavy. Each one of us leaned down with debt of gratitude that he had lavished freely in our motley group.
I made another pilgrimage to Amarnath year following and successfully achieved. More about that another time.
I wanted to meet this angel, and I thank you once again, knowing full well that The words were a poor substitute for what I felt for him in the depths of my soul.
Circumstances conspired against me, yet I could not do it. But even now, after so many years every detail is very clear in my mind and every time I think that the anonymous school teacher, I can not stop praying to God can be maximum happiness and prosperity.
One does not meet the angels with ease. I must have done something really good in my past life to have met a man like him.
About the Author
Rajiv Sethi
Bouquets and brickbats at
Email amvedin@yahoo.com,
My website http://indian-vedicastrology.com
My Blog http://myindian-vedicastrology.blogspot.com
I can also be reached at 011-91-(98-99-589211)
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